Saturday, April 07, 2007

You don't need to be a rocket scientist to make your own pet food.

A message in light of the recent Pet Food Recall:

If you have been thinking about finally leaving commercial dog food behind and moving on to better options, but have second thoughts about being able to meet all your dog's nutritional requirements, I have a solution for you:

Feeding plans for home prepared diets (cooked or raw), individually designed and balanced for your dog, according to the newest nutritional guidelines of the National Research Council (2006).

Claim:
"There’s nothing wrong with a balanced home-cooked diet, but it’s crucial that a vet nutritionist is involved.”
Fact:
It's crucial that a person is involved who has a firm grasp on canine nutrition. I have completed coursework in Animal Nutrition as part of a study program for my certification in Animal Care and have studied the dietary needs of dogs independently for several years now. There are actually only very few veterinarians who actually hold the degree of board certified nutritionist, and most of them work for, or are affiliated with, the pet food industry.

Claim:
"Scientific nutritional analysis has yet to be conducted in the same way it has with commercial pet food."
Fact:
The National Research Council has researched the nutrient requirements of dogs and cats very thoroughly and in fact just released updated guidelines in 2006. Contrary to AAFCO (Association of American Feed Control Officials), the NRC is an independent body with no affiliation to the pet food industry.

Claim:
"Feeding a well-balanced and safe home prepared diet is complicated."
Fact:
Armed with detailed information and properly formulated feeding guidelines it's actually very simple. I'll even provide a weekly shopping list.

Claim:
"It takes a lot of work to make a well-balanced meal because every species has different nutrient requirements."
Fact:
I'm concentrating my efforts on providing personalized feeding plans individually designed and balanced for each dog's needs.

Claim:
"Devising a healthy diet for your pet is possible, but time-consuming and cooking properly for your pets is a full-time job."
Fact:
I'll take the burden of designing a properly balanced diet off your shoulders. All you need to do is assemble the ingredients in the appropriate amounts.

Claim:
"Most veterinarians can provide the information needed to devise proper recipes and diet plans."
Fact:
With all due respect to the highly trained professionals in the veterinary field - when it comes to nutrition, only very few of them are actually capable of doing anything but recommending commercial foods made by certain well known national pet food companies - many of which have been affected by the recent recall.

Claim:
"Pet owners can cause some nutritional problems and health problems when feeding a homemade diet."
Fact:
As opposed to the health problems caused by poor quality and tainted commercial pet foods? If you can follow the simple instructions of one of my feeding plans, you will not cause any nutritional or health problems, since they are based on sound research.


If you are interested in this service, please check out http://www.betterdogcare.com/ and contact me for a consultation.

Labels: ,

Friday, April 06, 2007

A message in light of the recent Pet Food Recall:

Have you been thinking about finally leaving commercial pet food behind and moving on to better, healthier feeding options for your dog?

Available consultation options include recipes for home prepared diets, cooked or raw, individually designed and balanced for your dog, according to the newest nutritional guidelines of the National Research Council (2006).

Labels: ,

Sunday, August 06, 2006

Is high-protein food unhealthy for my dog?

That's one of the most frequently asked questions I hear when discussing nutrition with dog owners. Old wives tales about dry dog foods high in protein causing kidney disease run rampant both on and off the internet and many people deprive their dogs of what they crave most for fear of damaging their health.

Unfortunately the whole protein thing is not easily explained in just a few sentences, so bear with me if I ramble on for a while. I'll try to keep it as simple and straightforward as possible without going too much into scientific terms.

First of all, it is important that we understand that protein isn't only a nutrient - the amino acids it is made up of (think lego bricks forming a bigger structure) also serve as building blocks for body tissues, organs, enzymes, hormones, antibodies and so on - roughly half of the dry body mass of a dog consists of protein. Knowing this it is easy to understand that growing puppies need protein to build above mentioned body tissues, organs, enzymes, hormones, antibodies and both adults and growing puppies constantly need to replace and rebuild these as well. The body recycles amino acids to some extent, but part of them need to be replaced, just like you can't endlessly recycle paper or plastic.

Protein is processed in the liver and any waste materials are filtered and excreted by the kidneys. High quality protein does not generate large amounts of waste that needs to be removed from the body, but poor quality protein which is difficult to digest does and thus puts stress on the kidneys. The liver needs water to process protein and as a medium to carry waste products to the kidneys, where they are filtered out and most of the water is reabsorbed. The less concentrated the waste products in this primary filtrate are, the easier it is for the kidneys to do their filtering work - that's why it is unhealthy to feed dry food only and so critical that dogs eating mostly or exclusively dry food and dogs with liver disease get lots of extra water. Dogs who eat mostly canned food or a home prepared diet automatically take in more moisture and do not need to compensate as much by drinking. Contrary to what many people think and pet food companies claim, dogs (and cats) do not know instinctively how much extra water they have to drink to make up for what is lacking in the dry food. This is why I so highly recommend that people always add water to the kibble at feeding time.

Now that we have the basics laid out, we can return to the protein in the food. Many people cite old, outdated research that claims high protein percentages in the food are harmful to dogs and do all kinds of damage, especially to the liver. Fact is that these studies were conducted by feeding dogs foods that were made from poor quality, hard to digest protein sources, such as soy, corn, byproducts, blood meal and so on. From my explanation above, you now already know that it is a question of protein quality that affects the kidneys. Consider a wolf in the wild, who will eat relatively little else but meat if they can help it - these animals don't get kidney diseases on the same scale domestic dogs do. Their protein comes in the form of quality muscle and organ meat though, not processed leftovers from human food processing. It also contains around 70% moisture, whereas most commercial dry foods contain a maximum of 10%. Dogs and other "dog like" animals (canids) evolved eating a diet that consists primarily of meat, fat and bones, which they have been eating for hundreds of thousands of years. Commercial foods, especially dry food, has only been widely available for the past 60 years and we are still learning how much damage certain aspects of it can do. Things have improved quite a bit from hitting rock bottom in the 70s and 80s, but the majority of pet food manufacturers still produce bad foods from poor quality ingredients.

Just to digress for a moment, when I went to the grocery storeyesterday, I saw that Purina Dog Chow was on sale, $8 for a 22 pound bag. That's a little over 36 cents per pound, including the profit the supermarket makes on it, cost for the pretty, colorful packaging, advertising and all. On top of that, of course the manufacturer (Nestle/Purina) wants to make a profit too. How much do you think the food actually costs them just to make, without any profits? The answer is pennies per pound, which also reflects the ingredient quality. If I calculate a 40% profit margin for each the supermarket and the manufacturer, it comes to about 13 cents per pound. That's $260 per ton of food. Yikes.

Anyway, back to the protein. Protein in dog food can come from either plant or meat sources. Logically, plant sources are cheaper, especially considering that corn gluten meal, the most popular, cheap protein booster, is a byproduct of the human food processing industry, left over from making corn starch and corn syrup. It has a crude protein content of 60%, so theoretically even if your food recipe contained no other protein sources at all, you could make a food with a 20% crude protein content by mixing it 1:2 with some cheap carb source.

It is critical to stress that the term "crude protein" is used in the guaranteed analysis, which means there is no statement whatsoever as to its digestibility. Protein comes in many forms, even shoe leather, chicken feathers or cow hooves have a fairly high crude protein content, but the body is only able to extract and process very little of it, at the price of a lot of work and stress to do so.

Due to this labeling issue (only one of many, many others), the percentage of protein in a food by itself doesn't say anything at all. Ingredient lists are not 100% straightforward and truthful either, but at least you can somewhat gauge if there's even any quality protein in there at all.

Just to illustrate once again by example, let's say we have two foods who have the same percentages of protein, fat, carbohydrates, fiber and moisture. Food A contains 25% protein that is 60% digestible and food B contains 25% protein that is 85% digestible. That means of food A the body is able to utilize 15% of the protein content, but of food B 21.25%. Logically, to meet the body's requirement of protein, you'd have to feed more of food A than of food B, and the body of the dog eating food B will have to work less to utilize it.

I guess in really simple terms you can compare it to the engine of a car and the type of fuel you use. Just because you use high octane gas in a car that doesn't need it, it's not going to do any damage, but if you use poor quality fuel, regardless whether it is high or low octane, there will be buildup in the engine that hampers performance and will eventually lead to damage.

Labels: ,

Sunday, July 23, 2006

Canine Nutrition - Body weight and feeding amounts

Feeding guidelines on dog food packaging are just that - guidelines. You need to adjust the daily amounts up or down, depending on the caloric requirements of the individual dog.

This is influenced by many different factors, age, body size/weight (the larger the dog, the less kcal per pound of body weight are needed to maintain weight), activity level, ambient temperature, metabolism and so on. Dog food manufacturers can really only take age, size/weight and, to an extent, estimated activity level into consideration for their feeding recommendations, since the other factors vary too much and most owners are too subjective when it comes to assessing them.

In this regard, even activity level is iffy - a rather sedentary person might think that their dog is "active" when all the exercise it gets are two quick walks around the block for going potty and some play time indoors, while someone else who owns a dog of the same breed/size takes it along as a jogging partner for several miles each day and then plays fetch with it in the back yard for another hour.

The ideal weight of a dog is assessed from the body condition. There are some charts out there, such as for example this and this, but going only by a visual aid isn't helpful enough for many people.

Here's an easy method that you can use to evaluate your dog's body condition:

Curl your left hand into a loose fist. Don't clench, just fold the fingers into your palm until they touch it. Run the fingertips of your right hand across the knuckles. If your dog's ribs feel like this, he is underweight and you should adjust the daily feeding amount upward.

Next, run your fingers across the back of your hand. If this is how it feels when you run your hand over your dog's rib cage, he is overweight and should lose a few pounds.

Now run your fingertips across the front of your fist, below the knuckles. This is how a dog's ribs feel if he is at ideal weight.

Of course results will vary a bit depending on how thick a dog's skin and coat are, but it's a good rule of thumb. Performance dogs with a high activity level often are even a bit thinner than what would be considered normal, but generally speaking it is healthier for a dog to be a bit underweight than a bit overweight.

Normally I would recommend that people talk to their vet about their dog's weight at the annual wellness exam, but going by what I see at local dog parks, it seems to be a sad trend that even many veterinarians aren't truthful about dogs' weights, either because they are somewhat overweight themselves and don't make an unbiased assessment; or because they don't want to offend the person and risk losing a client by telling them their little sweet pea is getting too many cookies and could stand to lose a few pounds.

I'd like to mention this link to the results of a study done by Cornell University:


If you have a dog who needs to lose weight, I'd suggest reducing the amount of food they get by about 15 to 20% as a first step. Don't just go by eye and scoop, weigh out the daily portion, since volume measurements can be deceiving. Keep a diary of your dog's weight and body condition and weigh weekly at the very least to track progress. You don't want your dog to drop a large amount of weight in a small time frame, slow and steady is much better.

Find better dog food alternatives at the Dog Food Project
http://www.dogfoodproject.com

Get answers and personalized feeding and supplementation plans at
http://BetterDogCare.com

Labels: ,